June 5th

Zariquiegui to Puenta La Riena

Woke up it was about 50 degrees this morning, we slept in a bar last night as we couldn’t get into the albergue, all upstairs,  we about froze last night but getting out and moving seems to help.  Dominique and Germy stayed at the same place last night also.  Hayden is heading up the path this morning and we will attempt to go up Perdon.  This is the mountain with all the steel cutout pilgrims and all the wind turbines.

We stopped and had a hot tee and Cola Cao, this is like a hot chocolate only better, Deb really likes these.  3 euro for the both and it should be about 75 degrees today. Deb sure doesn’t like being cold.

We went up the Alto de Perdon as far as we could go but the rocks were just too big so we had to turn back.  We went into a little town at the bottom to call a cab to take us to Uterga.  We sat in front of a little church by a stone fountain to wait.  There was a little tiny one room mercado on the corner and Deb went in to get something to eat.  She got Havarti cheese and pan (bread) fresh from the oven, also fresh squeezed orange juice.  We sat and ate and waited for the taxi to come.

The taxi showed up and even though we had requested a handicap cab this one could not fit Debs chair.  He kept apologizing but we assured him that it was fine.  The next cab arrived and Juan was a young Pamplonian who Deb thought was cute.  He spoke very little English but we communicated just fine.  He drove us to the top of Perdon and even let us out to take a few pictures before we continued on our way.  He talked extensively of the American music he liked and even managed to give us some information about the surrounding areas.

He dropped us off in Uterga where we should be able to walk to Obanos, 20 Euro.  We just got a text from Hayden to stop and charge at a certain Alburgue and have the beef stew.  We did and it was delicious, no broth, mostly meat with peas, carrots and peppers.  Deb eats the vegetables and I eat the meat and bread.

While we are eating a group of pilgrims comes in, they are from California and we have a nice conversation.  They want pictures with Deb, and the one guy has a website also.  DaveandMarkontheWay.com.  He used to be a respitory therapist and said there was a Polish Doctor a couple of days ahead who spoke many languages.

A little further we saw a octagonal building down a little road and went to investigate, it was the church of Saint Mary of Eunate.  There is a lot of mystery surrounding the little church as there is very little documentation.  The earliest recorded history is from 1487.  The stuff here is so old compared to home it amazes me.  They believe it may have connections to the Knights Templar but there is litte evidence they were this far into the Navaresse countryside.  There was a tour bus at the church and we met an Italian doctor named Fabio who wanted our picture.  He teared up talking to us about the way, he had a dear friend who was confined to a wheelchair also and was very impressed by Deb and her bravery.  I concur she is the bravest person I know or maybe we are just crazy.